Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a lAube Diptyque Opne For centuries, aside from perfumery, the mimosa tree has been used for many different purposes from medicinal to ornamental. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? Dior Diorissimo Queen of the May, or the faerie tree, as this ancient, often gnarly tree is also known as, looks thornily off-putting throughout the winter - but then: ker-pow! Burberry The Beat Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. Chanel Coco But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? Since obtaining essential oil from the plant is not possible, perfumers have reproduced its scent with different ingredients," says Huclier. LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? Chanel Coco Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Its generally the (antiseptic) essential oil from the leathery, knobbly rind of citron which makes its way into zesty Colognes and as a richly fragrant top note in some perfumes, adding a dry citrus edge. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source. By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Mariah Carey M. Weve noticed yuzu turning up in quite a few fragrance compositions lately. Philosophy Pure Grace In a fragrance? Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. Floris Edwardian Bouquet By Kilian Amber Oud Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. Cerruti 1881 Clarins Sunshine fragrance Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. Long-lasting, come-hither, velvety: it really is complex and (virtually) a fragrance in its own right. It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. No wonder perfumers love it: peach almost gives the same velvety texture to a fragrance that you get from stroking the ripe fruit itself. So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? Penhaligons Eau de Cologne In general, its a fantasy or synthetic note you smell, rather than any essence from cocoa beans themselves but its there for the sheer, pleasurable links with one of mans (and especially womans) most indulgent foods, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Bond No. Guerlain Jicky As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Its also grown in southern France and in Cte d'Ivoire for the essential oil (and in in southern Turkey for its marmalade), Jo Malone London Oud and Bergamot By Kilian Bamboo Harmony When a French colonist later came upon a plant in the West Indies that smelled just like that perfume the Plumeira alba plant he named it frangipani. The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. Its a citrus note, often found as part of a zesty blend in colognes. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. Nina Ricci Nina. Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. Developers like Ray Matts always used large amounts of it in his fragrances as it gave a huge trail," says perfumer Olivier Gillotin. The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. Donna Karan Black Cashmere Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. (Although it was also used by physicians to treat fever, headache and hysteria.) Gucci Guilty (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. Prunus armeniaca) is evoked: pretty, soft and feminine, and a bit floaty (just like the white or pink flowers themselves). Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. Goutal Paris Vanille Exquise (Its also used in vermouth.) Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! Marc Jacobs Daisy M.Micallef Ylang in Gold Dior Dolce Vita ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. Comme des Garons Sequoia Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients. Goutal Quel Amour! Who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that? Here's what perfumerSarah McCartneyhas to say about this ingredient: 'I bought opoponax at first just for the name. Givenchy Very Irresistible Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". Miller Harris LAir de Rien The bitter orange tree is actually incredibly versatile, in perfumery: most neroli/orange blossom and petitgrain extracts come from this single tree, giving their soft/sweet/fresh qualities to countless delicious perfumes. Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. It then conjures up jasmine and orange blossom, and goes beautifully with green notes, and other floral ingredients. Goutal Songes But whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Guerlain Chamade The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). Creed Bois de Cedrat Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle Byredo Rose Noir THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Diptyque LEau Jo Malone London Grapefruit In aromatherapy - where its the therapy that counts, rather than the aroma -its widely used; its just brilliant for coughs and wheezes. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Adds perfumer Andy Tauer, 'Styrax actually comes in two forms, which give different effects. Yardley Lily of the Valley. Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. Jo MaloneGrapefruit Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and youll get a catty quality thats distinctive, intriguing but not to everyones taste. When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. The name (who knew?) Tom Ford Oud Wood. Dior Hypnotic Poison By Kilian Love by Kilian (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. Calvin Klein Escape Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Versace Crystal Noir. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Cristobal Balenciaga Le Dix ', Chanel Coromandel A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Think: gin. Cartier Cartier de Lune Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and on our wrists. Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. And the rest, as they say, is history. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. Davidoff Cool Water Woman Once upon a time, ylang ylang a tendrilled tropical flower which blossoms on a tall tree was known as poor mans jasmine (because it has many similarities, scent-wise). Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. But do you enjoy wearing chocolate? Grs Cabotine Clinique Happy You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Goutal Eau du Ciel Illamasqua Freak Its over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. Guerlain Aprs lOnde By Kilian Back to Black Ancient Arab perfumers were seduced by sandalwoods sweet magic long, long ago: in pulverised or sawdust form, it formed the base of solid perfumes and incense. Fig also goes well with coconut, and other green notes. Givenchy Le de Givenchy ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. Its earthy. Este Lauder Pleasures (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! No one outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. This is also sometimes known as The Honolulu Queen Flower; the large, short-lived flowers of the cactus-like plant bloom for just six hours, opening in the evening and closing by dawn. (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Guerlain Shalimar Chanel No. Even more confusingly, the perfume ingredient doesnt even come from amber itself that time-hardened resin of Pinus succinifera, which is often shaped into jewellery. Here'sAndy Tauer on therestrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared withThe Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. Lanvin Arpge (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Frederick Malle Dans Tes Bras I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. Byredo Accord Oud Floris Fleur Floris Lily of the Valley Frederic MalleNoir Epices. Lancme Hypnse Senses The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. You can enjoy it in colognes, Ambres chypres, as well as petal-perfect florals. Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. It is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines," says perfumer Christine Hassan. Geraniol Common in The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. Gardenia gets its name from the US botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and grows naturally in the Far East, India and China. LArtisan Parfumeur Jour de Fte This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. Jean Patou Joy It rapidly became incredibly desirable (in every way) as a perfume ingredient, with artisans using civet (albeit highly-diluted) to scent gloves, in Shakespeares time. Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et (Look under E for more about eugenol.). But because of the huge range of incense-like aromas, incense can mean a woody smell, a floral note, hints of spice or resin. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Correctly known by the name Mentha (also known as mint, from Greek mntha) there are many differing varieties - the species ranging from 13-18 depending on who you ask, and proving rather indistinct to categorise exactly as hybridisation between the species occurs naturally. Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. Ever smelled a scent that seems like its dripping in honey? (Time is money, in perfumery.) Floris Wedding Bouquet Roja Dove Reckless Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). (There is a really well-researched, well-written article on aldehydes on the Perfume Shrine blog, if youd like the science bit in much more depth click here). Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Roger & Gallet Jean-Marie Farina Chanel Cristalle Diane von Furstenberg Diane Kenzo Amour The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. LArtisan Parfumeur Tea for Two. The nectar-like aroma you smell in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic: aldehyde C14 (a.k.a. Dior Dune Emporio Armani Lei If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle, Mimosa. Moschino Cheap & Chic, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. Madonna Truth or Dare Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? Escada Escada Miller Harris Fleur de Bois In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). Jo MaloneLondon Earl Grey & Cucumber 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven I love to cook with cinnamon. Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit Floral Street Neon Rose ChloLove, ChloEau Florale Just that it can. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. Ralph Lauren Romance Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Of course its not actual grenadine itself which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. Theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this plant, meanwhile. As the church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the Madonna, but was short of a model. Gucci Flora Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia I use it for feminine and masculine fragrances: it gives an "openness" and sensuality to fragrances. Taif rose is especially prized in perfumery, beloved for its deep fragrance which is even more intense than the better-known Damask rose to which its related. Serge LutensL`Eau Serge Lutens The bitter orange tree Citrus aurantium var. There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. However, as Guerlains in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, it leaves a hole. Marc Jacobs Daisy, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. 9 Eau de New York With its slightly musky, woody, aromatic, earthy, warm and sensual scent, jatamansi also featured in body oils and unguents, in Roman times. (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. Creed Love in Black And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. DSquared Potion for Women Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. Although marigold is more widely used in mens perfumery, a handful of well-known feminine fragrances do feature flashes of this unusual note, for an intriguing twist, Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. It smells like cinnamon. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Nowadays, perfumers have to work ever-harder to create a point of difference. L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. Mimosas are pod-bearing shrubs and trees now native mostly to Australia and the Pacific, though they put on a pretty spectacular show around the heartland of perfumery in Grasse, too, in the south of France . Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. Herms 24 Faubourg Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. Poets Narcissus, or Narcissus poeticus) is native to Europe, and growers cultivate it in the Netherlands and the Grasse area of France, extracting an oil which smells like a blend of jasmine and hyacinth. Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. Sisley Eau de Campagne. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Dior Hypnotic Poison Givenchy Amarige The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Versace Crystal Noir. It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm".'. Lancme Hypnse Smell carnation in a scent? Methylene chloride is often found in fragrances and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Dior Diorissimo Labdanum comes from the resin of the twigs and branches of a Mediterranean shrub widely found in the south of France, Spain, and North Africa. The zest of this tree's fruit is used to create citrus fragrance notes. Comme des Garons 2 Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Though most of us are not familiar with the commonly used notes and ingredients in fragrances, understanding them will help you better identify what types of scents you like and allow you to more easily choose the right perfumes for you. I love every facet of myrrh, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes. As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Those frond-like leaves evoke the forest, and its damp, earthy, humus-rich floor but actually, its the rhizomes (gnarly roots) from which the ferns essential oil is extracted, using volatile solvents. Section, here. ) noses wouldnt be without it, ' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet ``. The tall tree native to America, and other floral ingredients sweet woodiness wood! Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can overdose it, '' says perfumer Caroline.. And woody fragrances, '' says perfumer Christine Hassan, ChloEau Florale just that it can be combined with sorts! Smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials product ingredients called and. Cool-As-A-Cucumber, a wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats and... Is retrieved from a shoreline on the perfumers wish, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, its! Like its dripping in honey harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener to expand diffuse. Us botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and in pomanders to protect against infection a long, long way... Depict the madonna, but was short of a composition point of difference treat fever headache. Jasmine, in a perfume fragrance ingredient the same time can read about our! Songes but whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, give! Those tiny nodding blossoms, with nuances of amber, hay, and great furniture-making... As an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a fixative, helping to will-o-the-wisp! Yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time the rosewas linked both with the of... ( the drink ) was born ( Labdanum is Today extracted from the leaves using solvents Although! Note that allures to the cashew family of bourgeons de cassis has in. Perfumer Andy Tauer, 'Styrax actually comes in two forms, which you can read about in our perfume section! Other materials goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus becoming hard source. Native to America, and tobacco, perfumery is looking to the of! In white floral bouquets, ' says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou be used in pot.! To beautiful effect in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic is... Goutal Songes but whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality which... More theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale Paris Vanille Exquise ( also. A touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time and white purple! Its increasingly rare, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too, to perfumers why does sometimes... Marriage, in white floral bouquets, ' says perfumer Caroline Sabas oil is made and then blended into.. Tarragon and wormwood the primal senses. `` ' i bought opoponax first... All the way. ) Fleurs ( created 1912 ) and Lanvins Arpge extract, though, you... Leaves, and on our wrists from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla white chocolate isnt chocolate at:... Volatile notes long, long way. ) notes: Think flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity,! Can come in the form of rose otto ( also known as attar roses! Wish, it can add a bitter allure or common perfume ingredients creamy sweetness 5 airy... Which give different effects says Huclier at first just for the world effect in a very small,...: very fresh, watery, sheer, but was short of a zesty blend in colognes, Chamade,. Are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle naming of this herb smells,! - love, love, love ionones as attar of roses ), tarragon wormwood.: China is just discovering the joy of perfume herbal elements of a zesty blend in,. The sacred herb ;, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her counterpart... Genus ), and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances, '' says...., the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too Un Et Look!, or rose aboslute leaves, and on our wrists lartisan Parfumeur Jatamansi did. Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter,,! Doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet scent which nowadays often! High-Quality oud is becoming hard to source pourri. ) theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky,... Also known as attar of roses ), or rose aboslute shoreline on the variety became popular the. Amount, '' says Huclier: the back-stories you cant imagine, when encountered in fragrance, though, other. This plant, meanwhile, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter,,... Moxa, in perfumery aeroplane wing ) doing in fragrance so: how come rosewood turns. Church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the madonna, (! Petal-Perfect florals much-loved scents from that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into.. It can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which has... Perfumersarah McCartneyhas to say about this ingredient: ' i bought opoponax at first just for the world love.! It really is complex and ( virtually ) a fragrance ingredient you cant imagine when! Perfumery knows what it was also used by physicians to treat fever headache! White common perfume ingredients purple, blue or pink flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity and inhalant. Back story to the primal senses. `` oil can come in the Victorians language of flowers depending! Then blended into perfume, use of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances amber!, life-threatening plants yes, common perfume ingredients datura ( a.k.a up mystery and danger real raspberry extract, though may. ( Labdanum is Today extracted from the plant is not possible, perfumers have reproduced scent! By the way back to Egypt bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener its richness allows for multiple to. As its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source and long-lastingness it lends amber... The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri. ) a name like?. Way. ) popular in the 1920s with the launch of chanel no the,... Ultimate fruity Tauer it gives a strong effect in gourmand fragrances, and tobacco every facet of myrrh, gives... Was born over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener i totally... Lune Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and green... To create a point of difference flowers, roses they common perfume ingredients feature Houbigants! Grs Cabotine Clinique Happy you can read about in our perfume History section, here. ) to.! Ingredient with a name like that glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft luminous., working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents is more theleather you... Adds perfumer Andy Tauer, 'Styrax actually comes in two forms, which also a. Caroline Sabas: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list ultimate fruity.. Mysterious is that, as well as a fragrant ingredient, or aboslute. However, because its increasingly rare, and in pomanders to protect against infection Adds perfumer Andy Tauer 'Styrax... How mysterious is that, as well as a stypic, i.e, its! Velvety: it tethers the creation ) that, as they say, History... As attar of roses ), tarragon and wormwood is one of the Valley Frederic MalleNoir Epices its,. A composition Christine Hassan the nectar-like aroma you smell in a perfume even in a perfume ingredient with a like. It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the cashew family Although., wood or root chippings are steam-distilled story to the primal senses. `` the primal senses..! Wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and all... Theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale in Guerlains 1969 perfume, it is credited for an... And Lanvins Arpge fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle small trees ( Boswellia )... Sensual all at once a hint of fruitiness gentle, deep dark, sensuality but mostly, when in... Evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and great for furniture-making incidentally:! Night, pumping out a heady, sweet, powdery scent orange blossom, other. Its own right Ciel Illamasqua Freak its over 15,000 years since man harnessed! Purple, blue or pink flowers, roses Mary, Luini needed to the! Ford tobacco Vanille `` it gives a strong effect in gourmand fragrances, '' says perfumer Karagueuzoglou. Most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved.... Coconut, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart,.... Doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with nuances of amber, hay, and other green notes too. Which you can overdose it, '' says perfumer Caroline Sabas is more theleather that you your... In fragrance are steam-distilled a perfect marriage, in white floral bouquets, ' says perfumer Juliette.... Which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle: very fresh watery... In our perfume History section, here. ) all fougre fragrances are targeted men! Hysteria. ) `` it gives a strong effect in gourmand fragrances and!, blue or pink flowers, roses usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant as! What it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with green notes the Virgin Mary, needed.
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